CANMORE – On shore next to their canoe at Spray Lakes Reservoir, Steve and Natasia Varieur broke out in smiles thinking about what they’ll talk about to fill the hours during their upcoming 715-kilometre trip on the Yukon River.
“I talk a lot and he kind of grunts and responds randomly,” said Natasia, with a laugh. “You really run out of things to say, there’s lots of observing. I think that’s where we differ.”
There are a few areas where the father and daughter differ when paddling, actually, such as she hopes for the weather to be not too cold, while Steve prays it’s not too hot. Steve also has the numbing thoughts of sciatica on mind for sitting too long in one position, whereas the psychological part will be the most difficult for Natasia.
“It’s tough when you get 12 hours into a race and you know you’re not even halfway done yet,” she said.
Canoeing is an activity the Varieurs have done together since she was little till now, a university graduate. In fact, the two are celebrating Natasia’s educational accomplishment by taking on the Yukon River Quest, a four-day canoe race starting June 26 from Whitehorse to Dawson City.
Steve raced the inaugural Yukon River Quest back in 1999, before Natasia was born. She was just two years old when she was taken on her first canoe trip, cuddling in the front with mom, with Steve at the stern.
“I’ve been hearing his stories of the Yukon River Quest and for as long as I can remember I wanted to do it,” said Natasia. “We’ve both done whitewater kind of separately, but this is the big one.”
Also known as the Race to the Midnight Sun, the continuous Yukon River Quest tests mental and physical toughness in the largely untamed Yukon landscape.
Going by the name of the Tashmanian Devils, the Varieurs and other racers will follow the river’s flow northwest toward the old gold rush community of Dawson City.
“These are the transformative experiences where you kind of learn what you’re capable of,” said Natasia. “In the race, in the middle of it, it feels really daunting, and just knowing you can go through that and come out of the other side of it I think makes you a better person.”
The river is the longest in Alaska and the Yukon and played an important role for transportation during the gold rush in the 1800s, where, like the modern racers, they faced changing elements, rapid waters and long periods of being alone. If they tip over and fall in, that presents other challenges such as exposure and being stuck in bear country.
While training in a new canoe, the Varieurs haven’t been faced with any issues in Canmore’s subzero waterways. The two have split training between the Bow Valley and Muskoka, Ont., where they live part-time.
Costing $6,000, their lightweight carbon fibre canoe weighs 37 pounds over an 18-foot-six-inch frame.
Steve customized it, adding a spray deck, an inline filter to easily drink river water, and bike lights for nighttime paddling. Quick access storage space holds emergency provisions, food, throw bags, ropes, extra clothing and camping gear.
They’ll also carry a survival kit, with the purpose of being able to endure the elements for 24 hours. Notable items Steve has thrown in are a few bear bangers, a signalling device, knife and whistle.
Hugging their bodies on the river are expedition life jackets, designed light and manoeuvrable while paddling.
The Varieurs lightweight paddles were also custom-made, costing about $250 each.
The No. 1 big question out on the river, during a race, is what to do about No. 1? Well, the idea is not to stop paddling, so in the spirit of competition, one must persist with the piss. The pair have bailers on-board to take care of business.
The Yukon is a place that scratches an adventure-itch of most avid explorers at some point, but the annual river race is against the clock, so it’s not really treated like a benign camping trip.
“We’re going to go as fast as we can, but we’re not Olympic athletes trying to break world records or anything,” said Steve. “The goal is to finish and we’ll be happy to do that.”
One of the last untouched and untamed places, the Yukon is a step off the beaten path of high rises and civilization and lets its natural beauty consume mind and soul. The remote territory attracts those wanting to get immersed in the rugged wilderness.
This adventure awaits the two Canmore paddlers.
Steve might not be much of a talker once the race begins, but the experience will fill the memories of a lifetime.
“Getting to race with my daughter is the most rewarding part,” he said.
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